It’s quite simple really….

Never confuse style and fashion.  Learn to distinguish between the two.

The most graceful principle of dress is neatness, the most vulgar is preciseness.

Never sacrifice comfort for style.

There is never a time when a necktie doesn’t matter.

A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life.

Do not wear a tie clip.  A well cut and made tie, and above all a properly knotted tie really lies flat without the aid of a clip.  Not to mention the fact that it is rather prissy.

Dress as an adult.  If you do not know one personally, which is quite possible today, think of your grandfather or watch a few Grant or Powell films.  You can gain an almost complete sartorial education from close study of Grant, Powell and Astaire.

Casual wear is meant to be comfortable, not sloppy.

The most expensive piece of clothing you will ever own is the one you don’t wear.

The bottom of a man’s jacket should line up with the knuckle of the thumb when the arm rests by his side.

One half-inch of a shirt collar should appear above the jacket collar.

A properly fitted waistcoat should be long enough for its fifth button to cover the trouser waistband.

The trouser bottom should cover two-thirds of the wearer’s shoe and be long enough to remain in contact with the shoe when walking.

A sock should match the trouser rather than the shoe.

A necktie should be pulled up into a collar so that it is tight enough to arch out slightly from the neck.

Bow ties that extend beyond the width of the wearer’s face or collar make him appear to be gift-wrapped.

A cummerbund’s folds always face up to hold the evening’s theater tickets.

1/2″ of your shirt’s cuff extends beyond the jacket when your arms are hanging freely.

The waistline of your trousers should be about 1″ below your navel.

Avoid logos. Always.

Contrary to, what seems to be popular belief, monograms are not meant to be visible, and they should  certainly not be on your cuff.  The placement of a monogram on a shirt should be in the lower left ribcage area, a few inches above your waistline.

A pocket square or handkerchief should not match the tie.  If the tie is silk, the pocket square should be fine linen.  Socks may be matched with the tie to liven things up a bit.

Invest in pairs of fine quality bench made shoes.  Properly cared for, Goodyear welted leather shoes will last a lifetime.

Educate oneself on the nuts and bolts of men’s clothing.  Learn about color, fabric, fit, drape, manufacture and care.  Flusser and Amies are as good a place to start as any.  Word for word, Amies’ books are the best ever written on traditional style.

Know your budget and buy the best quality available within your budget.  Bespoke is very expensive and beyond the reach of mere mortals.  There is quality clothing available at all price levels.  Educate yourself so you can choose wisely.

Know your measurements.  Have them taken by a professional.

Keep yourself in relatively good shape and maintain your weight.  Well cared for quality clothing will last a good long while, and clothing looks better on one who is fit as opposed to one who is not.  A good diet and exercise at least three times a week is usually sufficient and is time well spent.



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